Carnevale

The first historical evidence of Carnevale (Carnival) in Venice dates from 1097, and for centuries the city has marked the days that precede quaresima (Lent), the 40 days of abstinence leading up to Palm Sunday, with abundant feasting and wild celebrations. The festivities last 10 to 12 days and consist of concerts, street performances, masquerade balls, historical processions, fashion shows, contests for the best mask, and special theater performances. The tourist office has detailed information about daily events well in advance, or contact the CONSORZIO CARNEVALE DI VENEZIA (468/b Santa Croce, PHONE: 041/2510811, FAX: 041/5200410).

The most coveted Carnival parties fill up quickly (book well ahead). The BALLO DEL DOGE is held at Palazzo Pisani-Moretta on the last Saturday of Carnival. Tickets cost roughly $350 per person, dinner included; contact Antonia Sautter (PHONE: 041/5224426, FAX: 041/5287543).

The BELLE EPOQUE BALL is usually held at Palazzo Albrizzi. Contact Oltrex Viaggi (Riva degli Schiavoni, 4192 Castello, PHONE: 041/5242840, FAX: 041/5221986), which also organizes a gondola procession following the Grand Canal pageant during the last weekend.

COUNT EMILE TARGHETTA D'AUDIFFRET (6293 Cannaregio, 30121 Venezia, PHONE: 041/5230242) opens his palazzo on the Fondamente Nuove for evenings of masquerade, dancing parties, and follies; write to the count for information.

You can also get information from AMICI DEL CARNEVALE (Friends of the Carnival, Via Sciesa 10, Mogliano Veneto 31021) by mail.

Festa della Madonna della Salute

This popular festival gives thanks every November 21 to the Virgin Mary for having liberated Venice from the terrible plague of 1629 to 1630, which in less than two years killed nearly a third of the local population of 145,000. In gratitude, the Republic built a votive temple to the Madonna della Salute. To make the pilgrimage easier for the aged and the infirm, between Campo Santa Maria del Giglio and the sestiere (neighborhood) of Dorsoduro, a bridge made up of boats is traditionally set up across the Grand Canal.

Festa della Sensa

The oldest Venetian festival, the Festival of the Ascension, was initiated by Doge Pietro Orseolo II in the year 1000. Today the Ascension is held on the Sunday following Ascension Day, the Thursday that falls 40 days after Easter, and begins at about 9 AM with a procession of ships led by the mayor, who tosses a ring into the water and pronounces the ritual phrase: "In segno di eterno dominio, noi, Doge di Venezia, ti sposiamo o mare!" (As a symbol of our eternal dominion, we wed you, o sea!). Masses in the Chiesa di San Nicolò and boat races follow later in the afternoon.

Festa del Redentore

On the third Sunday of July, crowds of pilgrims cross the Canale della Giudecca by means of a pontoon bridge, which is traditionally built every year to commemorate the doge's annual visit to Palladio's Chiesa del Redentore to offer thanks to the Redeemer for the end of a 16th-century plague. The festival starts the previous night with foghi (fireworks) exploding over the lagoon. This sensational fireworks show starts around 11 o'clock and lasts with uninterrupted "compositions" for nearly an hour. The show is not held in the rain, but no one can recall the last time it rained during the Festa del Redentore.

Festa di San Marco

The festival in honor of the great Evangelist who for 1,000 years protected his city is today in part eclipsed by the fact that April 25 is also a national holiday (Liberation Day). The only unusual tradition observed is the sale of the buds of boccoli (red roses), which every Venetian man buys for all the ladies in his life (wife, mother, cousins, friends) -- the longer the stem the deeper the token of love. According to the legend, a soldier enamored of the daughter of the doge was mortally wounded during a battle in a far-off land. His blood, as it spilled, bore red roses, which he entrusted to his companion to bring to the girl. The story doesn't say if the flowers arrived on St. Mark's day, but Venetians have traditionally celebrated this pagan miracle on their patron saint's day.