AL PARADISO. Near the Rialto market, this music nightspot is classier than most, with a handsome wooden ceiling and antique columns. You can walk above a centuries-old well and have a look at the way Venetians got their drinking water until just a century ago. The food choices range from a good selection of panini (sandwiches) and beer to a limited menu featuring mostly Venetian fish dishes. Calle del Paradiso, 767 San Polo, PHONE: 041/5234910. Mon.-Sat. 9 AM-2 AM.
ARCA. Popular with the local university crowd, this is one of the newest additions to the Venetian after-hours scene, with an enticing array of snacks in the window and live music on Tuesday from October through May. Crosera (also known as Calle Lunga San Pantalon), 3757 Dorsoduro, PHONE: 041/5242236. Daily 8 AM-midnight.

HOTEL MONACO & GRAND CANAL. The piano bar in this luxe hotel is especially pleasant in the winter, when the fireplace adds extra warmth to the refined, romantic ambiance. Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal, Calle Vallaresso, 1325 San Marco, PHONE: 041/5200211. Oct.-June, daily 7:30 PM-midnight.

LE BISTROT DE VENISE. In addition to a unique menu of Renaissance Venetian dishes and a variety of crepes, this bistro also offers jazz concerts and open mike sessions for budding stars. Calle dei Fabbri, 4685 San Marco, PHONE: 041/5286651. Wed.-Mon. 9 AM-1:30 AM.

IL CAFFÈ. Known as "Bar Rosso" because of its bright-red exterior, this caffè with tables outside is a favorite of students. Inside, a huge brass coffee machine gives character to the counter and puts out enough steam for an inviting cappuccino, which, by Venetian standards, is rather well made here. The place has a reputation for strong spritz (pronounced "spriss"), the Venetian aperitif of choice invented when the Austrians ruled Venice. It's made with white wine, a strip of lemon peel, Campari or Aperol, and fizzy soda water. Occasional jazz concerts are held in summer. Campo Santa Margherita, 2963 Dorsoduro, PHONE: 041/5286255. Mon.-Sat. 8 AM-1:30 AM.

CAFFÈ BLU. This music bar and birreria (Italian-style pub) rolled into one has live music on Friday, frequent art openings, a non-smoking room (until 8 PM), and an array of tiny sandwiches filled with bits of smoked or cured pork or game. Whisky-drinkers take note: Caffè Blu has one of the widest selections in Venice. Happy hour runs from 8:30 to 9:30. Calle dei Preti (also known as Calle Lunga San Pantalon), 3778 Dorsoduro, PHONE: 041/710227. Mon.-Sat. 8 AM-2 AM.

CANTINA VECIA CARBONARA. Housed in an old coal and household supply shop that has been renovated with a rustic look, this fun bacaro has live jazz on Sunday and Thursday. There's no full-service kitchen, but you'll find plenty to eat among the cicheti, smoked fish, baccalà mantecato (dried cod with milk and olive oil), and sopressa (cured pork salami), along with inexpensive wine, until 2 AM. Rio Terà della Maddalena, Strada Nova, 2329 Cannaregio, PHONE: 041/710376. Tues.-Sun. 5 PM-2 AM.

CODROMA. One of the only bacari that stays open late into the night often has live jazz, but the real attraction is the backgammon and gaming tables. This is a Venetian institution, founded at the beginning of the century by the bearded cook of the same name portrayed in the picture near the window. Ponte del Soccorso, off Campo dei Carmini, 2540 Dorsoduro, PHONE: 041/5246789. Fri.-Wed. 8 PM-2 AM.

LINEA D'OMBRA. A combination piano bar-restaurant, this is a romantic after-dinner stop on the Zattere. Outside seating faces the island of San Giorgio. Punta della Dogana, 19 Dorsoduro, PHONE: 041/5204720. Thurs.-Sat. and Mon.-Tues. 8 AM-2 AM.

MARTINI SCALA CLUB. At this elegant piano bar with a restaurant, tickling of the ivory starts at 10 and goes until the wee hours. Calle del Cafetier, 1007 San Marco, PHONE: 041/5224121. Wed.-Mon. 10 PM-3:30 AM.

PARADISO PERDUTO. "Paradise Lost" has been catering to night owls since the late 70s, when it appeared as a friendly light in the dark calli (streets) of Venice. It's always been a hybrid nightspot with food (mostly inexpensive fish dishes), drinks, interesting wines (try the sparkling white Il Grigio Collavini), and music -- live jazz and ethnic on Sundays, harsh metal the rest of the week. Set up in a huge room with closely placed tables, this is a captivating place for togetherness and conviviality. Fondamenta della Misericordia, 2540 Cannaregio, PHONE: 041/720581. Thurs.-Tues. 7 PM-2 AM.

PINK AND GREEN. Not far from Campo Santa Margherita is this bar-caffè with an interior garden and blues and jazz music played over the stereo. Jim Morrison and the Beatles will greet you from the walls, covered with murals depicting historical music groups and singers. Spritz time, a sort of happy hour for spritz fans, is from 7 to 9 PM. Salizzada San Pantalon, Santa Croce 133, PHONE: 041/713236. Mon.-Sat. 6:30 AM-10 PM.

TORINO£NOTTE. This centrally located music bar has a short menu of snacks. Acoustic jam sessions once a week, usually on Wednesday, are the draw. Campo San Luca, 459 San Marco, PHONE: 041/5223914. Tues.-Sat. 8 AM-8 PM and 10 PM-2 AM.