Nightlife

BAR AL TODARO. Far less famous than the caffè around the corner on the piazza proper, Todaro is a worthy alternative, especially on a clear day when the view out toward San Giorgio and the Giudecca rivals that of the grand Piazza and Basilica. There's live saxophone music on summer nights. Piazzetta San Marco, 3 San Marco, PHONE: 041/5285165. Mid-Apr.-mid-Oct., daily 8 AM-11:30; mid-Oct.-mid-Dec., Tues.-Sun. 8-5.

CAFFÈ FLORIAN. The Stuccoes, mirrors, wooden carvings, and intimate booths here date back to 1859, but the historical atmosphere comes at a price: an espresso costs 10,000 lire and afternoon tea can end up costing as much as a meal when the waiter counts out the pieces of pastry missing from the platter and charges accordingly. No wonder it's one of the few caffè in all of Italy to accept credit cards. Under the Procuratie Nuove, 56 Piazza San Marco, PHONE: 041/5285338. Nov.-Mar., closed Wed.

CAFFÈ QUADRI. Opened in the late 18th-century, the Quadri was the first place in Venice to serve Turkish coffee -- back before the espresso had been invented. Less glamorous and less intimate than the Florian across the Piazza, this equally historic (and pricey) caffè had its fair share of famous regulars, including Stendhal, Balzac, and the hard-to-please Proust. It stays open late during summer, with music outside. Under the Procuratie Vecchie, 120 Piazza San Marco, PHONE: 041/5289299. Oct.-Mar., closed Mon.

CAMELOT PUB. Big salads, made-to-order sandwiches, and beer are served at this pub, open until 4 AM. A bacaro-style decor holds court, with unusually round tables, perhaps hinting at King Arthur's famous piece of furniture. Fondamenta degli Ormesini, 2754 Cannaregio, PHONE: 0339/4430617. Tues.-Sun. 6:30 PM-4 AM.

DEVIL'S FOREST PUB. One of the more popular Irish pubs in town, Devil's Forest has lots of board games and Irish beer on tap. Pasta, too. Calle dei Stagneri 5185, off Campo San Bartolomio, PHONE: 041/5200623. Tues.-Sun. 8 AM-1 AM.

FIDDLER'S ELBOW. Another typical Irish pub (in Italy), this has plenty of grub, gab, and frothy Guinness. Corte dei Pali, off the Strada Nova, 3847 Cannaregio, PHONE: 041/5239930. Daily 5 PM-midnight.

HARRY'S BAR. Step inside the cozy, wood-panelled cocktail bar to join the crowds sipping Bellinis, a treat not to be missed if you happen to visit during peach season (June to early September). The famous founder's creation is properly made with fresh white peach juice stirred into sparkling prosecco. Little green "shake-and-pour" bottles of Bellinis are sold here and elsewhere in town, but the preserved cocktail compares to the real thing like concentrated orange juice does to succulent oranges. Calle Vallaresso, 1323 San Marco, PHONE: 041/5285777. Daily 10:30 AM-11 PM.

LA BAGATELA. This is one of the few pubs not to borrow its decor from Great Britain or Ireland. Trappings such as video screens and booming music take the place of ye olde look. Fondamenta della Misericordia, 2924 Cannaregio, PHONE: 041/717888. Tues.-Sun. 8 PM-2 AM.

OLANDESE VOLANTE. Another centrally located spot is the "Flying Dutchman" pub, good for a simple late-night bite and glass of beer. Campo San Lio, 5658 Castello, PHONE: 041/5289349. Mon.-Sat. 10 AM-1 AM.

RANDON ENOTECA. If in search of an after-midnight wine-tasting session, head to this very simple and basic wine bar. One large room has wooden tables and chairs, and bottles line the walls of the small room in the back. There are always a dozen wines available by the glass and a small selection of first and second courses at mealtimes. Campo San Barnaba, 2852 Dorsoduro, PHONE: 041/5224410. Wed.-Mon. 8 AM-1 AM.

SENSO UNICO. "One Way" is a roomy, non-traditional pub with Guinness on tap and a serious display of panini. The communal wooden tables might help those under 25 meet that special stranger in their life. Calle della Chiesa, off Campo San Vio, 684 Dorsoduro, PHONE: 041/2410770. Tues.-Sun. 11 AM-1 AM.

The city-run gambling casino at the splendid Palazzo Vendramin-Calergi has closed indefinitely for restoration. A new CASINO in Ca' Nogari on Mestre, near the airport, has slots, blackjack, craps, poker, and roulette. June through September, the casino moves to the Lido. There's a minimum age of 18. Ca' Nogari: Via Triestina 222, Tessera, PHONE: 041/5416237; Lido: Lungomare Marconi 4, PHONE: 041/5297111. COST: 10,000 lire; 5,000 lire slot machines. Daily 3 PM-2:15 AM.