Restaurants

Al Cugnai, Piscina del Forner, Dorsoduro. Immensely welcoming trattoria close to the Accademia – get there by 8pm or be prepared to wait in line. Closed Mon.

Alle Oche, Calle del Tintor (south side of Campo S. Giacomo dell'Orio), San Polo. Has about 50 varieties of inexpensive pizza to choose from; closed Mon.

Altanella, Calle dell'Erbe, Giudecca. Beautiful fish dishes, and a terrace overlooking the island's central canal. Good for a treat; closed Mon & Tues.

Antico Mola, Fondamenta degli Ormesini, Cannaregio. Originally a family-run, local place, but becoming trendier by the year. Good food, good value; closed Sat.

Casa Mia, Calle dell' Oca, Castello. Very popular trattoria-pizzeria close to Santi Apostoli church. Closed Tues.

Crepizza, S. Pantalon 3757, San Polo. Pizzas, pasta dishes and crêpes that justify the slightly higher prices.

Frigittoria da Bruno, Calle Lunga San Barnaba, Dorsoduro. Very cheap, very basic trattoria; closed Sat & Sun.

Paradiso Perduto, Fondamenta della Misericordia, Cannaregio. Fronted by a popular bar, with a lively relaxed atmosphere and sometimes live music. Full meals start at around L20,000; closed Wed & Sun.

Rosticceria San Bartolomeo, Calle della Bissa, San Marco. A glorified snack bar serving low-priced full meals. Good if you need to refuel quickly and cheaply but just can't face another pizza; closed Mon.

Toscana, Via Garibaldi (bottom end), Castello. Plain little trattoria beyond the Arsenale, with a tiny menu, but all its dishes are good and inexpensive. Closed Wed.

Bars, Cafés and Pasticcerie

Al Volto, Calle Cavalli (near Campo S. Luca), San Marco. Stocks 1300 wines from Italy and elsewhere, some cheap, many not; good snacks, too; closed Sun.

Cantina del Vino gia Schiavi, Fondamenta Maravegie, Dorsoduro. Great wine shop and bar opposite San Trovaso church; closed Sun.

Do Mori, Calle Do Mori, San Polo. Narrow, standing-only bar, catering for the Rialto traders, office-workers, and locals just out for a stroll. One of the best of a number of bars in the market area, it serves delicious snacks; closed Wed pm & Sun.

Il Golosone, Salizzada San Lio, Castello. Pasticceria and bar with a glorious spread of cakes; does a delicious apple spremute; closed Mon.

Marchini, Ponte San Maurizio, San Marco. The most delicious and expensive of Venetian pasticcerie, where people come on Sun morning to buy family treats.

Nico, Záttere ai Gesuati, Dorsoduro. Highspot of a wander in the area, celebrated for an artery-clogging creation called a gianduiotto – a block of praline ice cream in whipped cream; closed Thurs.

Paolin, Campo Santo Stefano, San Marco. Thought by many to be the makers of the best ice cream in Venice; the outside tables also have one of the finest settings in the city; closed Fri.

VinoVino, Ponte delle Veste, San Marco. Slightly posey bar stocking over 100 wines; open until midnight; closed Tues.

Takeaways and Picnic Food

Cip Ciap, close to the church of Santa Maria Formosa in Calle Mondo Nuovo, Castello, has perhaps the city's best range of takeaway pizzas, with a wonderfully tasty spinach and ricotta variety (closed Thurs). Aliani Gastronomia, Ruga Vecchia S. Giovanni, San Polo, is a good source of picnic fare, as are the fruit and veg markets at Santa Maria Formosa and Santa Margherita, and the general market at the Rialto, where you can buy everything you need for an impromptu feast – it's open Monday to Saturday from 8am to 1pm.