One of the things I enjoy most about traveling is finding a bargain. Villa Grazioli was that and much more. Located on a Tuscolo hill near Frascati, the hotel has a very illustrious history. Built in the 16th Century by a Cardinal Carafa, the villa was a masterpiece boasting frescoes by G.P. Panini. The villa was handed down to various families over the years until it finally fell into disrepair. Abandoned, it was used as a shelter during WWII and in some rooms, there is still evidence of cooking fires and soot. Serious effort is being put into restoring the glorious frescoes but the dilapidation, in my opinion, only serves to deepen the character of this place.

It is situated in a splendid position with cool breezes in the summer and a majestic view of Rome and Castelli Romani. We loved the fact that we had the Villa to ourselves. Walking its magnificent galleries we were transported to a different time; a magical place. One of our favorite frescoed rooms had comfy couches and tall windows that looked out to the countryside. Surrounded by smiling, carousing satyrs we relaxed with a good book and enjoyed the solitude. I would have been happy had I paid $300 a night for this place but at $150 I thought it was the bargain of the century.

We had been to Rome and wanted to explore neighboring countryside estates, villas and off the beaten path kind of places. Villa Grazioli was the perfect starting point and ending point of our adventure. Breakfast was a lavish feast, service was immaculate and aside from the much too expensive dinner menu, the experience was sublime. Highly recommended.

The peace and tranquility of Assisi is difficult to describe. There is a stillness in the air that soothes the soul. Tiny streets wind up and down the hillside town, fountains bubble and eager birds fly overhead. The atmosphere is jovial in the summer heat but also there is a sense of the sacred. Monks wearing the brown robes walk among the pilgrims and somewhere in the piazza there is a game of soccer. In spite of the droves of tourists and pilgrims that descend on this tiny corner of the world, somehow, by some miracle, Assisi retains its peace. Pace e Bene, certainly pertains to this lovely place. I was glad to return and feel its wonderful energy again.

SERMON TO THE BIRDS

My little sisters, the birds, much bounden are ye unto God, your Creator, and always in every place ought ye to praise Him, for that He hath given you liberty to fly about everywhere, and hath also given you double and triple rainment; moreover He preserved your seed in the ark of Noah, that your race might not perish out of the world; still more are ye beholden to Him for the element of the air which He hath appointed for you; beyond all this, ye sow not, neither do you reap; and God feedeth you, and giveth you the streams and fountains for your drink; the mountains and valleys for your refuge and the high trees whereon to make your nests; and because ye know not how to spin or sow, God clotheth you, you and your children; wherefore your Creator loveth you much, seeing that He hath bestowed on you so many benefits; and therefore, my little sisters, beware of the sin of ingratitude, and study always to give praises unto God.

Saint Francis of Assisi – c1220

Etching of the Pyramid of Cestius in Rome

We stumbled upon Campo Cestio by chance. As we were looking for “the pyramid” of Porta San Paolo we wandered down a quiet street that was flanked by a very tall wall. It’s sort of an unwritten rule that tall walls hold either prisons or very wealthy mansions, museums or something else requiring privacy. We meandered down the road trying to peak in when we arrived at an amazing gate that took my breath away. Beyond was a sprawling cemetery filled with graves belonging to foreigners and some of my favorite literary figures like Shelley and Keats. There were a surprising number of authors buried here and a whole lot of cats wandering around which of course made our day. We do miss the cat when we travel. If you are curious about who lies interred you can find a grave here!

The pyramid was interesting in and of itself and has been a Roman landmark since 18 BC! It’s hard to imagine a place with more history stacked one layer upon the other. It absolutely sparks the imagination. Here are some pictures of the cemetery, pyramid, cats and the area around Porta San Paolo. Enjoy.